5-9-2018 Battery Node is tested and improved, next up, this one.
7-9-2018 Changed the terminals, 2,54 to 3,5mm, the 2,54 were rated up to 115 volts or something, the 3,5mm is up to 600 volts. This should be more compliant with safety standards. Also tilted the fuses a little to give them more space. Also, put the SlowBlow fuse to the front to give the thermal some extra room. Also to keep the thermal-fuse next to the AC/DC converter (and thus where I expect to be of more use)
Also, since the LED's let the outlet glow, I put some more onto the board to make this an more intended feature. When using a red light, it might be useful as a kids-nightlight thingy.
AC-Powered NRF52-Node, with PIR + RH/T for building into a wall socket.
it has the same dimensions as the Battery powered node (give me a couple of days to complete this one.. :))
In the foreseen future, I'm about to move into a new build house that is made, from the most part, of concrete.
Therefore, I don't think my current NRF52 gateway will be enough to cover the entire house. Therefore I probably need a repeater node, to connect the different floors to my homey. And since it is a repeater node, it will be more power hungry than only a temperature sensor node, therefore I wanted to include an AC/DC converter included.
I made some progress over the months, where I first made an inwall node that was made to be built with a local store outlet-front LINK to gamma.nl
Since the new house is built with JUNG outlets I redesigned the PCB so it fits with the JUNG AS500 outlet series.
So, the introduction is over, let's talk about the design.
It is a PCB with build in AC/DC converter, a T/RH and PIR sensor. The PCB is made to replace the steel bracket so it fits right in as a replacement and you only need to drill a small hole for the PIR-cap and the temperature sensor.
The Temperature-sensor is a SI7021, although I'm not sure if the AC converter will mess up my readings since it might generate some heat while operating.
As for a PIR-sensor, I took the AM612
An unintended feature, the power led is so bright that, when installed, it gives a glow through the front side.
Protections: I used an off the shelf converter that has all the certifications and also only cost me about 7 euro. (I'm willing to pay 5 euros in comparison to a Chinese brand to get some more regulated parts.) A thermal and a 0,5A Fuse + Varistor.
The dimensions I took for creepage and clearance I got from forum
And since it is better to be safe than sorry, I made extra holes etc to make it as safe as possible.
PCB: as mentioned, the PCB is made to be a replacement for the metal bracket for the JUNG AS500 Blind front. As this metal bracket is 1mm thick, I also recommend using this thickness for your PCB as well. Around the screw holes, I made some copper plating to make the PCB more sturdy. The JUNG front can also be bought without the metal bracket: Fabnr: A594-0PLWW | EAN: 4011377014671
Untested: I was scouring the forum and found that there might be an implementation of an ATaes132a, so I took the liberty to place it in there, even though I might not even use it. Also, hope it is connected well.
|J1||VAC_in(L)||AliExpress: 10Pcs 2Pin-10Pin Screw PCB Mounted Terminal Bloc...|
|J2||VAC_in(N)||AliExpress: 10Pcs 2Pin-10Pin Screw PCB Mounted Terminal Bloc...|
|U2||Ebyte-E73-2G4M04S||AliExpress: E73-2G4M04S1B Bluetooth ARM nRF52832 2.4Ghz 2.5m...|
|500mA1||Slow Bl. Fuse||THT|
|J3||i2C 2||AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-40-Pin-1x4...|